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Inside the box are three parts, the first layer reveals the heated bed with quick disconnect cables and three magnets glued in place. The thermistor and heating element wires are also very securely glued in place. Inside the box are three parts, the first layer reveals the heated bed with quick disconnect cables and three magnets glued in place. The thermistor and heating element wires are also very securely glued in place. Inside the box are three parts, the first layer reveals the heated bed with quick disconnect cables and three magnets glued in place. The thermistor and heating element wires are also very securely glued in place.
  • Inside the box are three parts, the first layer reveals the heated bed with quick disconnect cables and three magnets glued in place. The thermistor and heating element wires are also very securely glued in place.

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The second layer is the smooth rod setup with end blocks and two pillow blocks. Inside each pillow block are two (2) LM8UU bearings. The end blocks also feature a new y-axis belt tensioning system which is much more efficient then the previous style.
  • The second layer is the smooth rod setup with end blocks and two pillow blocks. Inside each pillow block are two (2) LM8UU bearings. The end blocks also feature a new y-axis belt tensioning system which is much more efficient then the previous style.

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The third, and final layer has the new middle plate which has new mounting holes for the pillow blocks as well as a slot for the heated bed wires, a hole for the y-axis limit switch wire, as well as a notch on the left side for the x-axis limit switch cable.
  • The third, and final layer has the new middle plate which has new mounting holes for the pillow blocks as well as a slot for the heated bed wires, a hole for the y-axis limit switch wire, as well as a notch on the left side for the x-axis limit switch cable.

  • You will also find all the hardware needed for this upgrade.

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Turn off printer, and unplug the power and usb cables. Turn off printer, and unplug the power and usb cables.
  • Turn off printer, and unplug the power and usb cables.

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Remove the RoBo's top casing To do this, please unscrew the 4 screws around the top case Prior to being able to remove the top case, you need to cut the zip tie, that holds up the wire harness
  • Remove the RoBo's top casing

  • To do this, please unscrew the 4 screws around the top case

  • Prior to being able to remove the top case, you need to cut the zip tie, that holds up the wire harness

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Your R1 now should have the top case off, and look something like this. Now, we will unscrew the Y-Axis belt clips, to free the bed You will need to use pliers or a similar tool, to hold the lock nuts, under the belt clip, to loosen the screws.
  • Your R1 now should have the top case off, and look something like this.

  • Now, we will unscrew the Y-Axis belt clips, to free the bed

  • You will need to use pliers or a similar tool, to hold the lock nuts, under the belt clip, to loosen the screws.

  • Next, loosen the four screws near the corners of the glass bed. You may need to loosen them from the bottom side of the rails.

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We are going to remove the X-Axis carriage. To do this, lift up on the X-Axis carriage. If you feel any resistance, please loosen the proper cables.
  • We are going to remove the X-Axis carriage.

  • To do this, lift up on the X-Axis carriage. If you feel any resistance, please loosen the proper cables.

  • Your R1 should now look like this (Hover over the second picture please)

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We now need to remove the screws from each of the three stepper-motors attached to the center assembly. Each stepper-motor has 4 screws. Feel free to leave the stepper motors in place, under the center assembly.
  • We now need to remove the screws from each of the three stepper-motors attached to the center assembly.

  • Each stepper-motor has 4 screws.

  • Feel free to leave the stepper motors in place, under the center assembly.

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We now need to unplug the Y-Axis endstop. If any other cables would prevent you from removing the X-Axis carriage or the Center Assembly, please unplug those as well.
  • We now need to unplug the Y-Axis endstop.

  • If any other cables would prevent you from removing the X-Axis carriage or the Center Assembly, please unplug those as well.

  • The Y-Axis endstop, is highlighted in the second photo.

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We now will remove the smooth rods Unscrew the four screws (Per smooth rod support)
  • We now will remove the smooth rods

  • Unscrew the four screws (Per smooth rod support)

  • The smooth rod, and it's support should now slide out.

  • You may need to use pliers or a similar tool, to hold the luck-nuts on the bottom side of the Center Assembly in order to remove the screws

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Remove the center assembly now (Black, acrylic plate) Un-do the four screws, in each corner.
  • Remove the center assembly now (Black, acrylic plate)

  • Un-do the four screws, in each corner.

  • You may need to use pliers or a similar tool, to hold the luck-nuts on the bottom side of the Center Assembly in order to remove the screws

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Remove the Idler Bearings
  • Remove the Idler Bearings

  • We recommend putting the lock-nut back on the idler bearing, after removal, so the washers and bearing do not get out of order

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Your R1 should now look similar to this. Place your new, black acrylic, center assembly on the RoBo. Make sure to have the correct orientation.  (The Brown protection is still on our piece of acrylic in this picture, please remember to remove this prior to screwing anything down) Install the idler bearings to your R1. Keep in mind the correct orientation. And don't forget to remove the protection shielding prior to installing the idler bearings.
  • Your R1 should now look similar to this.

  • Place your new, black acrylic, center assembly on the RoBo. Make sure to have the correct orientation. (The Brown protection is still on our piece of acrylic in this picture, please remember to remove this prior to screwing anything down)

  • Install the idler bearings to your R1. Keep in mind the correct orientation. And don't forget to remove the protection shielding prior to installing the idler bearings.

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Secure the new Center Assembly to the R1 bottom case
  • Secure the new Center Assembly to the R1 bottom case

  • Remember to use the lock-nuts, once again, on the bottom to properly secure the center assembly to the R1 Bottom Case.

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Mount the 3 stepper-motors to the Center Assembly Please make sure the screws that mount the stepper motors, are not too long. Please make sure the screws that mount the stepper motors, are not too long.
  • Mount the 3 stepper-motors to the Center Assembly

  • Please make sure the screws that mount the stepper motors, are not too long.

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Install the smooth rods, and their supports. Once again, please do not forget to use the Lock-Nuts. (Boxed in Red, third picture) Once again, please do not forget to use the Lock-Nuts. (Boxed in Red, third picture)
  • Install the smooth rods, and their supports.

  • Once again, please do not forget to use the Lock-Nuts. (Boxed in Red, third picture)

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We now will move on to what this guide is for, the Y-Axis.
  • We now will move on to what this guide is for, the Y-Axis.

  • The orientation of this is really important. This may vary printer to printer, so please check with yours. On this printer, the front of the printer (where the red circle is), has two magnets, and one magnet in the back (Boxed in blue, but you can't really see it).

  • It is more than just for looks to get this right, as the wire that supplies power to your heat bed will only slide one way. So please make sure you have your orientation correct.

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We now need to secure the Y-Axis linear motion system to the Center Assembly Remember to use Lock-Nuts once again on the underside. The washers that came with the screws, and lock-nuts may not be needed
  • We now need to secure the Y-Axis linear motion system to the Center Assembly

  • Remember to use Lock-Nuts once again on the underside.

  • The washers that came with the screws, and lock-nuts may not be needed

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Next we will add in the Y-Axis Belt. This too is a very important step, and the orientation of the belt must be correct. We recommend putting the belt in place, before inserting even the nuts to ensure the proper orientation, so the belts teeth, interlock with the motors'.
  • Next we will add in the Y-Axis Belt. This too is a very important step, and the orientation of the belt must be correct.

  • We recommend putting the belt in place, before inserting even the nuts to ensure the proper orientation, so the belts teeth, interlock with the motors'.

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Insert the nut, into the bottom of the belt The nut will be "upside down" once inserted, so make sure it does not fall out Slightly tighten one end, make sure the belt is properly inserted through the Idler Bearing, and motor, and then tighten the other end.
  • Insert the nut, into the bottom of the belt

  • The nut will be "upside down" once inserted, so make sure it does not fall out

  • Slightly tighten one end, make sure the belt is properly inserted through the Idler Bearing, and motor, and then tighten the other end.

  • Once you are sure the belt is properly installed, tighten both ends of the belt fully.

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Your Y-Axis is now complete
  • Your Y-Axis is now complete

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Make sure to re-install your X, Y, and Z endstops. Once they're all installed, put your X-Axis Carriage back on.
  • Make sure to re-install your X, Y, and Z endstops. Once they're all installed, put your X-Axis Carriage back on.

  • Screw the top case on and you're all set!

  • For the wiring of the heated bed, please use the Y Axis Cable guide.

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Finish Line

13 other people completed this guide.

Harrison Team RoBo 3D

Member since: 06/11/2014

8 Guides authored

5 Comments

I've followed these great instructions and I'm almost done. If I may come with a suggestion to others doing this it would be to mount the smooth rods before mounting the plate to the printer as doing that makes it possible to use a socket wrench to hold the nuts.

Daniel Hegner - Reply

While at it I also performed one of Ziggy's anti-ribbing upgrades (see the forums) while I did this. Removing the couplers from the step motors and inserting a 3mm bicycle bearing in the coupler didn't take more than about 10 extra minutes.

Thanks again for a great guide.

Daniel Hegner - Reply

I've also followed all your instructions here. I'm just a first-time user of Robo3D and I'm happy that I was able to do it successfully. Thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial. I've also been reading cheap 3D Printers reviews and stumbled upon Robo3D review and decided to buy the product.It's great.

Joey - Reply

Hi Guys, I know I'm late to the party but I have just bought a used Robo 3d with a broken print bed and draw type Y rails. Il like to do this upgrade, but can't find the kit anywhere. Any suggestions? Thanks .

Sotiris Spyrou - Reply

Where can I get this kit?

David Whelan - Reply

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